All the best,
Paul B.
Kent, England

Hi Ray, 

Thanks again for the fantastic book.  My boat is great.  Roll on fishing season in the UK which starts in June. Had a lot of people asking where to get a boat like mine!

Best Regards, 

Phil

Ray,

I bought your book about a year and a half ago. At the time I did not even have a jon boat. I ended up buying a 14ft fiberglass, v-hull and a 1967 20HP merc for $400.00. While many of your concepts were specific to aluminum, I was able to incorporate many of your ideas. I have attached pictures of the “In the making” and finished product.

I thought maybe you would like to use these on your website. Keep in mind that I am no electrical, painting, carpeting or wood working expert. This really can be done by anybody who has the time and desire. Al in, I have about $3,000. Could have been done for cheaper but I selected real high quality electronics, wood, hardware, paint and batteries. It could use a new motor. One day I will buy a merc 4 stroke 15HP with electric trim and start which will double my all in cost.

Boat Characteristics: 
1972 Fiberglass, V-Hull (Maker unknown)

1967 20 HP Merc (Cleaned up by local boat engine repair)

Decking made of ¾” treated plywood and marine grade carpet bought at lowes.

All wood coated with polyurethane. ($300)

Substructure to support decking made of treated 2x4 ($100.00)

Interior paint is Interlux Brightside Fiberglass Topcoat ($105.00)

Hull paint is Interlux fiberglass bottomkote Antifouling ($105.00)

Fiberglass hull repaired on bottom ($50.00)

Minn Kota 55LB Thrust Powerdrive with Universal Sonar (Fish finder sonar) and Co-pilot remote control steering; Remote fits on fishing pole – no foot pedal required ($650.00 on ebay)

25LB Electric Anchor Winch ($125.00)

Hummingbird 525 Fishfinder ($119.00)

Bow light/Stearn Light ($30.00)

Toho rig Livewell prebuilt with transom pump and aerator (Purchased at Bass Pro for 179.00)

Automatic bilge pump for transom ($45.00)

Custom hatch 30”x18” bought at bass pro ($59.00)

2 bank battery charger 10AMP ($100.00)

2 batteries – 1 for trolling motor and one for all other electronics ($160.00)

2 pedestal seats and 1 rear cushon seat ($150.00)

All electronics connect to a marine grade resettable fuse switch with 6 ports ($50.00)

Wiring 16, 14, 12 and 8 gauge as required with quick disconnects on all equipment ($150.00)

Hardware is all stainless with button washers for bolting deck to substructure ($100.00)

I am proud of it. I have gone out on it once and I love it! Thanks for the inspiration.!! I had tons of fun building it! I hope you enjoy the customer satisfaction as much as I will enjoy the boat! Feel free to call me to discuss anytime!

Hello Ray,

My project began with a brand new 16' Alumacraft Jon that is 48" wide. I started by running my 6 gauge wiring for the trolling motor down the right side through the V-channel. I cut garden hose and put it behind every rib so the wire would not touch any sharp edges. Since I kept all the factory benches, I ran electrical conduit to act as chasers. This made running wires and in one case livewell hose, very easy. I included a 60A breaker just off the battery which is recommended by Minn Kota. Down the left side I ran 12 gauge wire for my switch panel. I included a 20A breaker at the battery for added protection. All my ground wires go to a central location in a waterproof box. My sonar wire runs alone and never comes in contact with any other wire to cut down on any interference. Since I was mounting the trolling motor to a bracket, I decided to mount a plug, gauge and 12v outlet to it. The trolling motor plug is also used for charging the battery (thanks for the tip). The wiring section of the book was a huge help. 

The decking was done with 1/2" plywood that was given two coat of polyurethane after every piece was cut, drilled, assembled for proper fit then taken back apart. The front support panel is the only piece where 2x4's were used for added support due to the access hole for front storage. I glued blocks to the top backside of every support panel so I wasn't edge screwing the deck down. 

Chris Balodis